Below is a step by step guide to setting up a terrarium with a simple waterfall feature. This terrarium was setup for a customer wanting to keep Blue Poison-arrow Frogs (Dendrobates azureus) but the basic principles can be applied to a number of different set ups for a wide range of species.
We started out with a 24x18x18" glass Hagen ExoTerra terrarium. Our customer wanted some planting on the background of the terrarium with the option of adding more plants himself at a later date so we descided to use a coco background as they are one of the most versitile backgrounds suitable for a wide range of plant types to root to. The background is cut short of the bottom of the tank to prevent it sitting in the water layer and preventing it from rotting. For instructions on cutting and fitting coco background click here.
The aquarium safe silicone holding the background in place requires 24 hours to cure, this provides time to work on other aspects of the terrarium. Our customer requested a water feature be added into the design, he had provided us with various pieces of decor and equipment including a piece of wood so we decided to use it as the main portion of the water feature. We chopped the wood to size and carefully carved a channel down the centre following the natural contours of the wood.
Once the silicone holding the background has dried work inside the terrarium can recommence. The pump for the water feature is positioned in the base of the terrarium along with an aquarium water heater. The heater is set to the minimum required temperature for the frogs behing housed to provide some background heat and help raise humidity in the terrarium. The pump used here is a ZooMed Micro Pump, we would usually choose a pump with a filter attachment but in this instance the pump was provided by the customer so we chose to create a housing from a perforated plastic delicup and packed it with filter floss to prevent the pump sucking up debris and clogging thus reducing the amount of maintainance required. The cables from the pump and heater are run up the side of the background and escape through the lid.
Hydroleca is added to form a drainage layer and lift the substrate above the water level. When used in conjunction with a pump / water feature the light weight honeycomb centred clay pebbles of Hydroleca provide a second function as a biological filtration media allowing the colonisation of beneficial bacteria. Hydroleca has several advantages over gravel being lmuch ighter in weight and the more uniform size and shape allowing a greater amount of water to be stored and flow easier through the drainage layer. Rocks and pebbles are used to hold back the Hydroleca and form a pool at the front of the terrarium.
A substrate divider is used to allow excess water to drain away while preventing the main substrate from washing into the drainage area. It is advisable to cut the substrate divider slightly larger so that it laps up against the side of the terrarium. A small amount of substrate is placed on to the substrate divider to hold it in position and fine gravel is added to the pool area. The substrate we are using in this set up is coco as it is free draining and neutral.
Next the tubing is installed for the water feature, an elbow is added to direct the water flow. Note the notch cut into the background to allow the wood to sit flush against the background. The wood for the water feature is siliconed into place and allowed to cure before the next step.
Once the silicone has cured the landscaping and first stages of planting can begin. We cut a plastic pop bottle to form a channel between the base of the waterfall and the pool at the front of the terrarium. The offcuts from the piece of wood are added to form a terrace and the first plants are added. It is a good idea to slope the substrate upwards from front to back in order to make it easier to view into the terrarium. Our customer also requested that an empty plant pot be incorporated so that he can swap and change plants.
Moss is then added to form the main ground cover, here we have used two types of Moss; Clump / Pillow Moss around the pool to continue the contors of the pebbles and Carpet Moss to fill in the main ground cover. A small amount of Moss is used to cover the output from the pump, this hides the plastic elbow as well as spreading the flow of water. Fine gravel is added to the stream and everything is watered in well.
Next planting of the background can begin. Ficus pumilia planted against the back is trained to climb using small wire staples and will spread quickly to cover the background, the wire staples can be removed once the plant has rooted. A knife is used to open pockets in the background that will be used for planting epithytic bromeliads.
The stem and roots of the bromeliads are inserted into the pocket and are suported by small wooden stakes. A small amount of Moss is added to help retain moisture and encourage the bromeliads to root quickly. Be careful not to add too much Moss or cover too much of the base of the plant or you may cause the bromeliad to rot.
Final overview of the terrarium, the plants just need time to grow in and get established. We hope that this article provides you with some ideas for a set up of your own.
